A winter’s weekend in Marrakech

To visit Marrakech at any time of year is to step inside an otherworldly dream, where old meets new in an intoxicating convergence of eras and cultures.

But to visit in February, when England’s winter has begun to starve the skin of sunshine, is a reawakening from hibernation in the most warmly welcome way. 

I’ve been visiting Marrakech for twenty years, always drawn back by its enchanting charm. My most recent visit was with my mum and auntie in February 2024.

STAY

The first choice you need to make when planning a trip to Marrakech is whether to stay within the medina (the city’s historical centre) in a riad, or on the edge of the city in one of the larger hotels.

Whilst the latter might offer more extensive amenities, you will need to arrange transport to get into the old part of the city. My favourite place we’ve stayed out of town (for the breathtaking wedding of some friends) is the Beldi Country Club, rustic and chic with gorgeous gardens and pools.

But staying in the medina of Marrakech in a riad is where it’s at for me.  There are so many to choose from that it can be quite overwhelming but our stay in February at Riad 72 struck a harmonious balance between welcoming guest house and stylish hotel.

A pricier alternative and a vision of red and white striped chic, El Fenn, the creation of Richard Branson’s sister, is the ultimate in décor drooling. Or the cylindrical Nobu Hotel Marrakech with its circular pool deck, restaurant, bar, and 360 degree panoramic terrace offers another trendy alternative on the edge of town.

VISIT

Getting lost in the souks is a rite of passage when visiting Marrakech, and hours easily slip away whilst you wander deeper into the treasure trove of ceramics, rugs, brassware, baskets, and jewellery. A top tip is to take an empty bag to check in for the flight home!

A visit to Le Jardin Majorelle is also a must, with its unreal cacti and vivid blue hues so distinctively Majorelle that you can buy the paint in the gift shop and the cobalt tones can be found in garments and homeware throughout the souks.

Lived in during the 1980s by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, it’s easy to imagine walking into Le Jardin Majorelle wearing a YSL creation from the designer’s heyday, and you can dream about picking out your favourite at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech next door where the dresses are showcased in a stylish tribute to his fashion prowess. 

If you’d like to escape the chaos of the city centre, you can get a day pass to the Beldi Country Club to use the swimming pool, and it’s worth the trip to see the beautiful gardens and buildings.

And after a long day of exploring, a visit to a Hammam is the perfect Marrakechi way to unwind.

EAT

From mouthwatering tagines to salads using fresh ingredients and subtle spices, Moroccan food is a joy to savour.

For lunch or dinner within the souks, Nomad serves up fresh seasonal dishes and overlooks the bustling Place des Épices.

Le Foundouk, once a medieval caravanserai offering a resting place for travellers and merchants, sends hosts holding lanterns to lead diners through the Medina maze to their restaurant.

In a city where every building seems to open out to a breathtaking rooftop, the panoramic restaurant and bar at El Fenn is like something out of a décor magazine.  

Otto Marrakech is a new restaurant that I haven’t tried yet but it’s definitely on the list for next time.

And our favourite place for atmosphere is Comptoir Darna where the delicious dinners are accompanied by Moroccan dancing and music.

DRINK

Whether yours is a mint tea or a mojito there are plenty of places in Marrakech to enjoy a drink and alcohol is now more widely served in the city.

Before the 100% Arabica coffee has even brewed, a morning queue forms daily outside the famous Bacha Coffee, a must-visit for coffee aficionados.

Timing a visit to a rooftop bar at sunset is unmissable and some of our favourites are Kabana, Rooftop Dardar, and Kosy Bar beside the giant nests of the storks on top of the neighbouring walls.

A cocktail at the Le Churchill Bar at La Mamounia Hotel (yep the one where Anna Delvey infamously racked up a huge unpaid bill as portrayed in Inventing Anna on Netflix) will be one of the most expensive in town but it’s worth it to see the hotel and to sip in style.